Archive for the Tutorials Category

100 Things I’ve Learned About Photography

Posted in Tutorials on Disember 9, 2007 by Izad

“Since I found photography two and a half years ago I have learned different things which I would like to share with you today. These lessons have made me richer and I hope that you will find them refreshing and inspiring on your journey with the camera, too. ”

1. Never do photography to become a rock-star.
2. Enjoy what you are shooting.
3. Prepare well for your shooting, realizing that your battery isn’t charge when you’re setting up for that sunrise shoot is too late!
4. Always take one warm garment more than you actually need with you
5. Pay attention to your thoughts and emotions while you are shooting
6. Set goals you can achieve
7. Write tips about photography, because writing is also learning
8. Never go shooting without a tripod
9. Be pleased with the little prosperities
10. Build relationships with potential photo buddies
11. Watch the place you want to shoot first with your heart then with the camera
12. Always stay calm
13. Know that you tend to overestimate yourself
14. Perspective is the killer
15. Dedicate yourself to photography, but never browbeat yourself too much
16. Take part in a photography community
17. Keep your camera clean
18. Never compare yourself to others in a better or worse context
19. Find your own style of photography
20. Try to compose more and to hit the shutter less

21. Seek out and learn to accept critique on your images
22. Do something different to recover creativity
23. Get inspiration from the work of other photographers
24. Criticize honestly but respectfully
25. Get feedback from your lady
26. Don’t copy other photographer’s style
27. Be bold
28. Take care of the golden ratio
29. 10mm rocks!
30. Take selfportraits
31. Read books about photography
32. To give a landscapephotograph the extra boost, integrate a person (maybe yourself)
33. Every shooting situation is different than you expect
34. Pay attention to s-curves and lines
35. Always shoot in RAW

36. Keep your sensor clean, so you can save some work cleaning your image in post production
37. Discover the things you think are beautiful
38. It takes time to become a good photographer
39. The best equipment is that what you have now
40. You can’t take photographs of everything
41. Break the rules of photography knowingly, but not your camera Wink
42. Pay attention to the different way that light falls on different parts of your scene
43. The eye moves to the point of contrast
44. Clouds increase the atmosphere of a landscape
45. Start a photoblog
46. Accept praise and say “thank you”
47. ‘Nice Shot’ is not a very useful comment to write
48. ‘Amazing!’ isn’t useful either. Try to describe specifically what you like or don’t like about an image.
49. You are not your camera
50. Ask a question at the end of your comment on a photo to get a ping-pong conversation with the photographer
51. Do a review of your archives on a regular basis, the longer you photograph – the more diamonds are hidden there
52. Always clarify what the eyecatcher (focal point) will be in your image
53. No image is better than a bad one
54. Everyone has to start little
55. Your opinion about photography is important!
56. Leave a funny but thoughtful comment
57. Speak about your experiences with your photo buddies
58. Limit your photograph to the substance
59. Participate in Photocontests

60. Post processing = Optimizing your image to the best result
61. Shoot exposure latitudes as often as possible
62. Use photomatix as seldom as possible, HDR’s always have a synthetic flavor
63. Always remember what brought you to photography
64. Never shoot a person who doensn’t want to be photographed
65. Always turn arround, sometimes the better image is behind you
66. It’s who’s behind the camera, not the camera
67. Mistakes are allowed! The more mistakes you make, the more you learn!
68. If you have an idea and immediately you think : No, this is not going to work – Do it anyway. When in doubt – always shoot.
69. Understand and look to your histogramm while shooting. It delivers very important information about your image
70. Know your camera, because searching the menu button in the night is time you don’t want to waste
71. Shoot as often as possible
72. Believe in yourself

73. Don’t be afraid of getting dirty
74. Pay attention to qualitiy in your image
75. Your photographs are a personal map of your psyche
76. Re-check your ISO-Settings. It’s aweful to detect the wrong settings on your screen.

77. Be thankful for long and thoughtful comments on your images
78. Never trust your LCD. Normally it is brighter and sharper as the original image.
79. Provide for enough disc space, because it’s cheap and you will need it.
80. Learn to enjoy beautful moments when you don’t have a camera with you.
81. Always arrive at least half an hour earlier before sunrise / sundown, composing in a hurry is a bad thing.
82. Try to amplify your mental and physical limits. Takes some extra shots when you think “it’s enough”
83. Pay attention to structures in the sky and wait until they fit into structures in the foreground
84. Visit the same place as often as possible. Light never shows the same mountain.
85. Print your images in big size. You will love it.
86. Calibrate your monitor. Working with a monitor that is not accurate is like being together with someone you can’t trust. It always ends badly.
87. Don’t think about what others may say about your image. If you like it, it’s worth publishing.
88. Never address reproaches to yourself. Learn from your mistakes and look forward, not backward.
89. Fight your laziness ! Creativitiy comes after discipline.
90. Ask yourself : What do you want to express in your images ?
91. Always try to think outside the box, collect new ideas about photographs you could do and ask yourself : Why not?
92. Search for a mentor.

93. Photography is never a waste of time.
94. Every community has it’s downsides. Don’t leave it out of an emotional response.
95. There will always be people who will not like what you are doing.
96. Henri Cartier-Bresson was right when he said that “Your first 10,000 photographs are your worst.”
97. A better camera doesn’t guarantee better images.
98. Always have printing in mind when you postprocess your images.
99. Photography is fair : You gain publicity with the quality of your images. Unless the images are stolen, there is no way of cheating yourself higher.
100. Write a 100 things list

article and photos by Martin Gommel

martin website :


List diatas diambil dari sorg German photographer yg bernama Martin Gommel. Hampir quarter telah aku blaja dari list di atas. Aku memang dah observe style dia lama dah melaui flickr dan photos yg dipamerkan memang superb. Post-processing dia memang aku kagum giler. Bila la aku nk power gunakan photoshop nih.. Ilmu cetek lg ni..adeh


Izad’s Lightroom Workflow

Posted in Tutorials with tags , , , , on November 26, 2007 by Izad

Kali ni aku nk tunjukkan pula workflow aku bila aku gunakan Adobe Photoshop Lightroom(Lr), satu photo-editing software yg semakin mendapat tempat dikalangan photographer sebab ia mudah, cepat dan berkesan. Tapi bagi aku still tak dapat menandingi Photoshop(Ps).. Senang cakap kalu nak edit mudah2 pakailah mende ni tp kalau nk pakai layer2 sume watlah kat Ps…

  1. Kene import dulu gambar ke Lr..Go to File>Import Photos from Disk. Akan keluarlah gambar kat Lr di bahagian Library tu..Dari sini korg bole tag,rate or flag gambar utk pilih mane yg best.
  2. Then, go to Develop section and double click photo mane yg korg nk edit.
  3. 1st mende yg aku check ialah white balance..Adakah photo itu sesuai dgn white-balance nye?Jika tak bolehla ubah wb tu utk jadikan gambar tu lebih ‘sejuk’ atau lebih ‘panas’..
  4. Check exposure…Kalau under, tmbahkan exposure gambar dan sebaliknya. Biasanya aku hanya ubah skit kat exposure dalam julat -1.00 to +1.00 depends on picture
  5. Adjust Contrast kalau perlu.
  6. Contrast juga boleh diubah di Tone Curve..Di tone curve, korg boleh adjust highlights, lights, darks, and shadows.. Kebiasaanya, contrast yg baik boleh dicapai dgn membentukkan curve kepada bentuk ‘S’. Atau kalau korg malas boleh tukat ke Strong Contrast dekat Point Curve.
  7. Adjust colours..di sini korg boleh adjust dan enrich colours of the photo. Ade 8 colours yg boleh diubah-suai die punya hue, saturation dan luminance.
  8. Sharpening kalau perlu…bergantung kpd gambar tp selalunya kat amount tu value yg molek adalah dlm 80-100.. Utk radius amatlah jarang aku tukr..fix di 1.0 or kalo nk tambah dlm 0.5-1.0.. Detail lak lbh kurng same dgn amount while masking aku slalu buat lbh skit dari value kat detail..
  9. Kalo gambar korg suffers vignetting(slaunye digicam biase xmengalami masalah ini) boleh adjust kat part vignetting tu. Kalo nk tambah vignetting pun boleh. Ini selalunya dibuat utk buatkan photo kita ala-ala classic gitu..
  10. Dah siap lah kalo dah sampai sini.. Cuma kalau tak brapa puas hati lg boleh lah adjust2 blk mende2 kat atas ni.. Untuk burned image tu ke Jpeg go to File>Export.. Specify folder mana nk ltk dan amik quality 100%. Click OK..

Check balik folder mana korg ltk dan tgk la hasil editan korg.. Puas hati bukan? Mudah dan cepat bukan? hahaha.. Banyak songeh lak aku nih..

Video utk tutorial ni aku akan upload lps aku abis convert video ni.. PC aku ni processor die slow nk mampus

Adobe Photoshop Lightroom(Lr)

Posted in Tutorials on November 22, 2007 by Izad

Adobe Photoshop Lightroom(Lr) adalah satu photo-editing software yg baru diperkenalkan oleh Adobe untuk mereka2 yg minat dalam fotografi nih.. Bukan saja pro yg pakai malah yg xtau ape pun pasal editing pun boleh master software ni dalam mase yg sangat singkat thanks to Lr’s interface yg memang easy,user-friendly dan bersih.

Fungsi Lr bukan saja semata-mata untuk editing photo tapi Lr juga digunakan untuk menyimpan gambar yg ade beratus-ratus dalam folder korg tu dengan mudah menyebabkan kalau kita nk cari specific gambar dalam beratus-ratus file tu menjadi mudah. Korg boleh tag, flag and rate gambar dengan mudah supaye kita tahu mane gambar yg best, mane plak yg sampah. Senang cite organisasi gambar2 tu jadi lebih teratur la..

Fungsi2 lain yg ade dalam Lr termasuklah Slideshow – buat slideshow utk diburn dalam cd or untuk di convert ke dalam pdf, Print – untuk print gambar dalam pelbagai saiz dan setting, dan Web – untuk ditransfer gambar ke website or domain site korg. Fungsi2 ni aku tak kisah sgtlah sbb bukannye guna sgt pun. Fungsi utama yg menjadi perhatian aku di sini ialah bahagian Develop di mana kat bahagian ni proces editing photo dilakukan.

Dalam Develop, banyak mende yg kita boleh alter dan improve:

  • White balance, exposure and contrast control – Under exposed(gambar gelap)? senang je, tambahkan exposure guna slider je..Sama juga dengan white balance, slide je untuk tambah suhu pada gambar or kurangkan lagi
  • Tone curve editor – Boleh control tone2 yg ade dalam gambar(highlights, lights, darks, shadows) dgn gunakan slider atau adjust dkt tone curve.
  • Advanced hue, saturation, luminance editing – Boleh control or adjust 6 major colous yg ade dalam gambar kita dari segi hue, saturation dan luminance(kilauan warna)
  • Fast zooming, image comparison(before/after)
  • Black & White conversion -Fast conversion to b&w photo disamping boleh adjust contrast setiap warna dalam b&w
  • Cropping and straightening tools -Pantas utk crop gambar or nk tgakkan gambar
  • Synchronized adjustment across multiple images – Kalau korg dah edit 1 gambar dan nk apply same editing dekat beberapa gambar yg lai, simply copy adjustment dan paste dekat photo yg lain..or simply buat preset utk apply kat image lain.

Dan banyak lagi..Aku bukan dibayar oleh Adobe pun..lebeh2 lak.. lol..Just nk share apa yg aku tau je. Kat bawah ni ade beberapa screentshot Lr.



Pada yg nk try Lr nih bole dwnld trial 30 hari di SINI

Next aku akan story pasal workflow aku dalam Lr..

Rule of Thirds

Posted in Tutorials on November 20, 2007 by Izad

Salah satu rules yg popular dalam fotografi mahupun art adalah Rule of Thirds. Rule ini mengatakan yg satu image bole dibahagikan kepada 9 kotak yg sama saiznya dengan membuat 2 garisan yg same jaraknya secara melintang dan 2 garisan yg sama jaraknya secara menegak.

Dengan 2 garisan menegak dan 2 garisan melintang ini, akan terhasillah 4 titik pertemuan antara garisan2 ini. Empat titik pertemuaan ini dikatakan sebagai titik focus utk sesuatu object/subject dlm sesuatu image diletakkan kerana di titik2 ini dapat memberikan ssesuatu image tu kekuatan, tenaga, kuasa dan mcm2 lagilah daripada kalau kita letak object/subject di tengah2.

Rule of Thirds

Untuk gambar2 landskap, adalah lebih menarik jika kita letakkan horizon di salah satu garisan yg melintang yg membentuk rule of thirds seperti yg kita dapat tgk di gambar diatas manakala pokok diletakkan di 2 titik pertembungan menambahkan lagi interest gambar itu.

Dengan rule of thirds kita dapat seimbangkan lagi sesuatu image dan sejuk mata kita memandang… Tapi ini hanyalah satu rule yang bukan wajib untuk kita ikuti.. Jadi korg semberono jelah ikut mane sedap mata memandang…
Dibawah ada beberapa images yg dihasilkan berdasarkan rule ini.

Burung camar

DSLR: Why shoot in RAW?

Posted in Tutorials on November 20, 2007 by Izad

Apa itu RAW? Kata encik wikipedia, raw adalah image file yg telah diproces secara minimal skali daripada image yg ditangkap oleh sensor camera. Tak semua camera yg membolehkan kita shoot file raw. Hanya camera2 dslr ataupun high end point-and-shoot camera yg ade function nih manakala kebanyakan camera yg lain hanya kita boleh shoot dalam format jpeg saja

JPEG file adalah image file yg telah diproces secara terus oleh litar2 dalam camera menggunakan semua setting yg kita gunakan ketika shoot image file tu. Bermakna ape yg kita set dalam camera, macam tu lah keluar dalam jpeg file.. Nak edit jpeg file? Boleh aje kat photoshop tapi kualitinya byk dah hilang semasa image compression yg telah dilakukan oleh litar2 camera ketika writing file jpeg. Kang aku tulis teknikal sgt korg xpaham lak kang… Nak penjelasan teknikal boleh usha kat encik google..

Kalu kita igt zaman dulu2 2-3 taun lepas kita still guna filem atau negatif sesetengah orang panggil. Senang kita igt raw ni adalah negatif filem dalam bentuk digital.. Satu image file yg ‘mentah’ dan belum lagi dimasak..terpulang kepada kita sendiri macam mane nk masak bende mentah nih.. Lebih kurang macam tu la ceritanya. Dengan raw file kita dapat mengawal semua aspek dalam pembikinan sesebuah image sama ade dari segi exposure, white balance, colours, contrast, sharpening, bla..bla..bla.. Nak tambah rencah ape pun ikut korg lah. Dengan raw, hanye on-camera settings yg mempengaruhi or ade effect kat image processing tu hanyalah ISO speed, shutter speed, and aperture. Yang lain bole alter kat image processing software. Hasil terakhirnya jadilah 1 image yg mengikut kehendak or resepi kita dapat dihasilkan..

So, nk shoot RAW or JPEG…ikut korg ler…

Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO part 1

Posted in Tutorials on November 19, 2007 by Izad

Utk info part 1, aku nk story skit pasal 3 bendalah ni..Biasenya memang kita tak kisahkan pasal 3 benda sbb selalunya kita biarkan camera kita setkan semua nih,ie kita guna auto mode..Aku memang tak suke gune auto mode..Nak tau sebabnye?Nanti aku story lain kali lah..Sekarang nih pasal 3 mende nih..

Dalam bahase fotografi, ISO bermaksud sensativiti filem atau camera sensor terhadap cahaya. Dalam setiap camera adela rating ISO dari 100,200,400 ke 3200. Makin tinggi rating ISO makin sensatif sensor terhadap cahaya. Sensativiti ISO yg tinggi boleh mengakibatkan gambar kita jadi grainy atau org lain cakap noise. Jadi penggunaa ISO yg berpatutan perlu untuk menghasilkan gambar yg best. Senang aku cakap korg letak je ISO rating dalam camera korg tu kat 100. Hampir 80% gambar korg ambil boleh diambil dalam rating 100 melainkan korg tangkap gambar dalam low-light yg memerlukan ISO yg tinggi utk melajukan shutter speed.

Dalam Bahasa Melayunya, ia bermaksud bukaan atau dlm bahase camera orang cakap bukaan pada lens. Dalam setiap lens akan ade beberape blades yg membentuk lubang untuk mengawal jumlah cahaya masuk pada sensor camera kite. Lubang aperture ni plak boleh dikawal saiznya bergantung kepada camera. Kalau camera compact agak sukar nk kawal size ni sebab biasenya sensor camera sendiri yg akan tentukan..Macam mana pula dengan kiraan atau saiz aperture? Saiz aperture selalunya ditulis dalam bentuk fraction atau nisbah, contahnya macam f/1.4, f/2.8 atau 1:2.8-5.6..Perlu diingati dalam nisbah atau fraction, jika nilai denominator kecil maka lagi besarlah value aperture dan vice-versa. kalau korang belek camera korang biasenya kat sepan lens tu ade tulis 1:2.8-5.6 atau serupa bentuk macam tu la tp value yg lain..Itu bermaksud dekat focus length paling pendek, max aperture yg dibenarkan ialah f/2.8 manakala max aperture of f/5.6 untuk focus length paling maximum utk lens korg. Maknanya kalau korg zoom sampai abis camera korg tu max aperture bole f/5.6 je dan kalo korg tak zoom, max aperture cume f/2.8..tu je..Itu je utk pengetahuan basic pasal aperture..Info yg lebih advance akan dihuraikan lain kali.

Shutter Speed
Shutter speed bermaksud kelajuan shutter atau berapa laju masa yg diambil utk cahaya masuk ke dalam sensor camera..Dalam setiap camera ade la yg dipanggil shutter curtain atau senang kita igt mcm kelopak mata camera la..Kalau lama kita bukak, maka banyaklah cahaya masuk dan sebaliknya. Nilai atau angka utk shutter speed same mcm aperture tadi, yakni ia dalam bentuk fraction tapi nilainya adalah saat..Contahnya macam 1/2,1/100,1/1000…Perlu diingati yg shutter speed berkait rapat dengan aperture.

Secara analoginya kita ambil macam ni lah..Bayangkan 1 pili air yg ade kat sinki dapur tu dengan gelas dibawahnya yg perlu diisi dengan air. Anggap kadar aliran air adalah shutter speed manakala bukaan paip adalah aperture. Gelas yg penuh diisi dengan air plak adalah gambar.

Bukaan paip besar (aperture besar, f1.8,2.8,4,5.6)= kadar aliran laju (1/60, 1/125, 1/250….;shutter speed tinggi), akhirnya air didalam gelas akan penuh.

Bukaan paip kecil (apeture kecil, f8,f11,f16..)= kadar aliran perlahan (1″,3″,10″…bulb; shutter speed rendah), juga pada akhirnya air di dalam gelas akan penuh.

Jadi disini, aperture dan shutter speed saling memerlukan antara satu sama lain bagi mendapatkan gambar yang baik dan exposure yang agak betul.

Aku tuliskan secara mudah dan tak telalu teknikal sgt sebab aku tau korg bukan kisah sgt pun pasal mende2 teknikal nih..Aku macam tu gak.hehe..Untuk yg lebih teknikal aku tulis lain kali…

Photo editing software

Posted in Babbling, Tutorials on November 18, 2007 by Izad

First of all, sebelum korg nk edit photo, korg mesti ade photo editing software yg memang byk berade di pasaran bersih mahupun pasaran ‘gelap’..Pandai2 lah korg cari..Top of aku punye list utk edit photo ialah a software called Adobe Photoshop Lightroom..A simple yet very powerful tool utk edit photo korg…Tapi sejak dua menjak nih aku ade la blaja secara kecil-kecilan pasal Adobe Photoshop CS3 dan kini baru aku sedar yg banyak kelebihan yg ade kat photoshop cs3 nih..Secara kesimpulannya kalo nk simple editing, buat kat lightroom..nk advance skit buat kat photoshop cs3…tu bagi aku la…

Sebelum aku belajar pasal photoshop, selalunye editing gambar aku selalu buat kat picasa..Apa itu Picasa? Bole check kat sini ..Senang je kalo nk edit kat situ. Tapi personally baik korg blaja je terus photoshop..Senang je wa cakap..hoho

Antara photo editing software yg lain pernah aku pakai ialah Adobe Photoshop Elements dan ACDSee Pro…Tapi dua2 software ni dah tak pakai sgt dah. ACDSee aku pakai kalo nk resize or kecilkan size photo je sbb memang cepat ikut situ drpd kalo aku ikut photoshop.

So, ape lagi..sebelum baca post2 kat blog ni lg better korg cari Photoshop CS3 or Photoshop Lightroom..Perlu diingati yg Photoshop CS3 dan Photoshop Lightroom adalah 2 software yg berlainan..ikut korg la source mane nk cari..